Hand pruners (also called secateurs) are one of the most used tools in a garden. They make clean cuts on stems and small branches, which helps plants heal faster and stay healthy. This guide covers choosing the right pruners, using them correctly, and keeping them sharp and clean so they last for years.
What You’ll Need
- Hand pruners (bypass or anvil style)
- Clean, dry cloth
- Rubbing alcohol or disinfectant wipes
- Sharpening tool (a sharpening stone or file designed for garden tools)
- Light machine oil or tool oil
- Leather gloves (optional, but helpful)
Step-by-Step
- Choose the right type. Bypass pruners work like scissors—one blade passes by a thicker hook. They make clean cuts on live wood. Anvil pruners have a single blade that presses onto a flat surface; they are better for dead wood and are easier on weaker hands. For most general gardening, bypass pruners are the go-to.
- Check the blade sharpness. A sharp blade cuts cleanly. If the blade is dull, it will crush the stem instead of slicing it. Test on a thin twig: a clean cut means sharp; a ragged tear means it needs sharpening.
- Open the pruners fully. Hold the handles so your thumb and fingers wrap around them. Make sure the blade is on the side that faces the part you are keeping. This prevents tearing the stem.
- Position the cut correctly. For most cuts, place the blade just above a bud or a leaf node, angling the cut away from the bud. This helps water run off and encourages new growth in the right direction.
- Cut with a smooth motion. Squeeze the handles together firmly and evenly. Do not twist or wiggle the pruners while cutting—this can damage both the tool and the plant.
- Cut at the right spot. For dead or diseased wood, cut back to healthy tissue. For shaping, cut just above an outward-facing bud. For removing a whole branch, cut close to the main stem, but leave a small collar (the swollen area at the base) to help the plant heal.
- Clean after each use. Wipe the blades with a cloth to remove sap and debris. If you were cutting diseased plants, disinfect the blades with rubbing alcohol before moving to the next plant.
- Sharpen regularly. Use a sharpening stone or file, following the existing bevel angle. Usually, you only sharpen the outside of the bypass blade. A few strokes on a stone is often enough. Wipe off any metal filings.
- Oil the moving parts. Put a drop of oil on the pivot bolt and any springs. Open and close the pruners a few times to distribute the oil. This keeps the action smooth and prevents rust.
- Store properly. Keep pruners dry and hang them or put them in a tool bag. If they have a locking mechanism, engage it before storing.
Common Mistakes
- Using pruners on branches that are too thick. If you have to force the cut, the branch is too big. Use loppers or a saw instead.
- Cutting too far from the bud. Leaving a long stub invites disease and dieback. Cut close, but not into the bud.
- Cutting at the wrong angle. A flat cut can hold water; a slight angle helps it shed.
- Neglecting to clean after cutting diseased plants. This spreads pathogens to healthy plants.
- Storing dirty or wet pruners. Sap and moisture cause rust and dull blades.
Tips
- Use bypass pruners for green, living stems; use anvil pruners for dead, dry wood.
- If you have arthritis or weak grip, look for pruners with a ratchet mechanism or ergonomic handles.
- Clean the blades with a bit of oil after sharpening to protect them.
- For very sticky sap, use a little vegetable oil on a cloth to wipe it off.
- Keep a separate pair of pruners for cutting flowers—they stay sharper longer.
- Learn the proper cutting technique for specific plants (like roses or fruit trees) to get the best results.
Troubleshooting
- Pruners are hard to close. The pivot bolt may be loose or the blades may be dull. Tighten the bolt if needed, or sharpen the blade.
- Blades are sticky. Sap residue can make the action stiff. Wipe with a cloth dipped in oil or rubbing alcohol.
- Cut is ragged or crushed. The blade is dull. Sharpen it or replace the blade if it is too worn.
- Rust spots appear. Rub with fine steel wool or a wire brush, then oil the blade. To prevent rust, keep pruners dry and oiled.
- The spring comes off. Most pruners have a small hook or slot for the spring. Reattach it carefully; if it is bent, replace it.
- Blade is chipped. If the chip is small, you can sharpen it out. If large, replace the blade or the pruners.
Frequently Asked Questions
Q: What is the difference between bypass and anvil pruners?
Bypass pruners have a curved blade that slides past a flat hook, making clean cuts on live wood. Anvil pruners have a straight blade that presses onto a flat surface, which can crush live stems but works well on dead wood.
Q: How often should I sharpen my pruners?
It depends on use. If you prune often, sharpen every few weeks. If you notice cuts becoming ragged or the tool is hard to close, it is time to sharpen.
Q: Can I use hand pruners on thick branches?
No. Hand pruners are for stems up to about half an inch thick (or thinner, depending on the model). For thicker branches, use loppers or a pruning saw.
Q: How do I disinfect pruners between plants?
Wipe the blades with rubbing alcohol or a disinfectant wipe. Let them air dry. This is especially important if you are pruning diseased plants.
Q: Why do my pruners leave a brown edge on the cut?
This is often due to a dull blade that crushes the tissue. Sharpen the blade and make clean cuts. Also, cutting at the right angle helps.
Q: Can I cut wires or plastic with my pruners?
No. That will damage the blade. Use wire cutters or scissors for non-plant materials.