Growing Fringed Bleeding Hearts: A Step-by-Step Guide

Fringed bleeding hearts (genus Dicentra, often sold as Dicentra eximia or Dicentra formosa) are woodland perennials prized for their fern-like, finely cut foliage and clusters of small, heart-shaped flowers that dangle from arching stems. Unlike the old-fashioned bleeding heart, which often goes dormant in summer, fringed types can bloom from late spring into fall if conditions are right. They are excellent for shaded borders, woodland gardens, and containers. This guide walks you through planting, caring for, and troubleshooting these charming perennials.

What You’ll Need

• Fringed bleeding heart plants or bare-root divisions
• Garden trowel or small spade
• Compost or well-rotted leaf mold
• Organic mulch (e.g., shredded bark or leaves)
• Watering can or hose with a gentle spray nozzle
• Balanced, slow-release fertilizer (optional)
• Pruning shears (for cleanup)

Step-by-Step

1. Choose the right location. Fringed bleeding hearts thrive in partial to full shade, especially in cooler climates. They can tolerate morning sun but need protection from hot afternoon rays, which can scorch the foliage. A spot under deciduous trees or on the north side of a building works well.
2. Prepare the soil. These plants prefer rich, humusy, well-draining soil with a slightly acidic to neutral pH. Before planting, loosen the soil to about a foot deep and mix in a few handfuls of compost or leaf mold. If your soil is heavy clay, amend it generously to improve drainage.
3. Plant at the right depth. Dig a hole slightly wider than the root ball. Place the plant so the crown (where roots meet stems) sits at the same level it was in the nursery pot. For bare-root divisions, plant them so the crown is just at the soil surface. Backfill and firm gently.
4. Space properly. Give each plant about a foot to a foot and a half of space. They spread slowly via rhizomes, so they will fill in over time but should not be crowded initially, which can reduce airflow and encourage fungal issues.
5. Water thoroughly after planting. Give the new plant a deep watering to settle the soil and eliminate air pockets. Keep the soil consistently moist but not waterlogged for the first few weeks while roots establish.
6. Mulch around the base. Apply a two-inch layer of organic mulch, keeping it a few inches away from the stems. Mulch retains moisture, keeps roots cool, and suppresses weeds.
7. Water regularly during dry spells. Once established, fringed bleeding hearts still prefer consistent moisture. During prolonged dry periods, water deeply once or twice a week rather than lightly every day. Check the top inch of soil; if it feels dry, it’s time to water.
8. Feed lightly in spring. Apply a balanced, slow-release fertilizer or a top dressing of compost in early spring as new growth emerges. Avoid high-nitrogen fertilizers, which can produce lush foliage at the expense of flowers.
9. Deadhead spent blooms. To encourage reblooming, snip off faded flower stems at their base. This prevents the plant from putting energy into seed production and promotes a second flush of flowers in late summer.
10. Cut back foliage in late fall or early spring. The foliage may die back after frost. You can leave it over winter to protect the crown, then trim it away in early spring before new growth appears. Or cut it back in fall if you prefer a tidy look.
11. Divide every few years. After several years, clumps may become crowded and bloom less. In early spring or fall, carefully dig up the plant, divide the rhizomes with a sharp knife, and replant the divisions immediately.

Common Mistakes

• Planting in full sun. Too much direct sun, especially in warmer regions, will scorch the leaves and shorten the bloom period. Stick to partial or full shade.
• Letting the soil dry out. These are woodland plants that dislike drought. Even established plants will wilt and go dormant prematurely if the soil stays dry for long.
• Planting too deep. Burying the crown too deep can cause rot. Always keep the crown at soil level.
• Over-fertilizing. Heavy feeding, especially with high-nitrogen products, results in lots of leaves but few flowers. A light spring feeding is plenty.
• Ignoring drainage. While they like moisture, they will rot in soggy, waterlogged soil. Ensure the planting site does not collect standing water.

Tips

• Pair fringed bleeding hearts with other shade lovers like hostas, ferns, and astilbes for a lush, layered look.
• In very hot climates, provide extra afternoon shade or plant them in a cool, north-facing bed.
• Mulch in late fall to protect the roots from freeze-thaw cycles, especially in colder zones.
• If you want to collect seeds, let a few pods mature on the plant, but note that seedlings may not come true to the parent variety.
• These plants are deer-resistant, making them a great choice for woodland gardens where deer are a problem.

Troubleshooting

• Foliage turns yellow and dies back in summer. This is often due to heat stress or drought. Ensure consistent moisture and provide more shade. The plant may go dormant early; it will likely return next spring.
• Leaves have brown, crispy edges. This usually indicates too much sun or dry soil. Move the plant to a shadier spot or improve watering.
• Plant fails to bloom. Insufficient light (too deep shade) or too much nitrogen can cause poor flowering. Move to a spot with a bit more morning sun, and stop high-nitrogen feeding.
• Soft, mushy stems at the base. This is a sign of crown rot, often from poor drainage or overwatering. Remove affected parts, improve drainage, and reduce watering.
• Holes in leaves. Slugs and snails love these plants. Handpick them in the evening, or set out shallow beer traps (bury a container so the rim is level with the soil and fill with beer).
• Plant disappears entirely in fall. This is normal dormancy. Mark the spot so you don’t accidentally dig it up in spring.

Frequently Asked Questions

• Are fringed bleeding hearts the same as the old-fashioned bleeding heart? No. Old-fashioned bleeding hearts (Dicentra spectabilis, now often Lamprocapnos spectabilis) are larger, with arching stems and heart-shaped flowers, and they usually go dormant in summer. Fringed types are smaller, have ferny foliage, and bloom longer.
• How long do fringed bleeding hearts live? With good care, they are long-lived perennials, often persisting for many years. Dividing every few years keeps them vigorous.
• Can I grow them in containers? Yes. Choose a pot with drainage holes, use a rich potting mix, and water regularly. They may need winter protection in very cold zones because roots are less insulated in pots.
• When is the best time to plant? Early spring or early fall are ideal. Avoid planting during hot, dry summer weather, as the plants will struggle to establish.
• Do they spread aggressively? No. They spread slowly by rhizomes, forming neat clumps. They are not invasive and are easy to control.
• Are fringed bleeding hearts toxic to pets? Yes, all parts of the plant are considered toxic if ingested by dogs or cats, and can cause skin irritation in some people. Wear gloves when handling and keep pets from nibbling.