Ornamental grasses add movement, texture, seasonal color, and structure to a landscape, from low edging to tall privacy screens. The best choice depends on your climate, available space, sunlight, soil, and whether you want a clumping grass or a spreading groundcover. Before buying, check your local hardiness zone and confirm that a species is not invasive in your area; some plants commonly called grasses, such as sedges and rushes, are useful landscape choices too.
What You’ll Need
- A site plan or measured planting area, plus notes on sun, soil drainage, and available height and width.
- Your local hardiness-zone information and a regional invasive-plant list.
- Plant labels or a nursery catalog showing mature size, growth habit, and preferred conditions.
- A spade, garden fork, hose, and mulch for planting; gloves and clean pruning shears for maintenance.
Step-by-Step
- Assess the site. Observe how many hours of direct sun the area receives, and note whether soil stays wet, drains quickly, or is exposed to wind. Check for overhead wires, paths, foundations, and sightlines. Use mature plant dimensions—not the size of the pot—to allow adequate clearance.
- Choose a landscape role. For a low border or groundcover, consider compact blue fescue (Festuca glauca) in sunny, well-drained soil, or a suitable sedge such as Carex for shade or moisture. For a focal point or mixed border, look at upright switchgrass (Panicum virgatum) or feather reed grass (Calamagrostis cultivars). For a tall screen, consider big bluestem (Andropogon gerardii) where it has room. Match the plant to the site, not just its appearance.
- Check habit and local suitability. Clumping grasses expand gradually from a central crown and are often easier to place in mixed beds. Running grasses spread by rhizomes and can overtake small borders; use them only where their spread is welcome or contained. Verify the exact species and cultivar: hardiness, mature size, water needs, and invasiveness can differ. In regions where nonnative fountain grass (Cenchrus, formerly Pennisetum) is invasive, choose a noninvasive alternative recommended locally.
- Plan a balanced arrangement. Put tall varieties toward the back of a bed or where they will not block windows, paths, or views. Place medium grasses in groups to create rhythm, and use low varieties along edges. Repeating a species in small groups usually looks more cohesive than planting many unrelated varieties one at a time. Leave enough space for each plant’s mature width and airflow.
- Prepare the ground. Remove weeds and loosen the soil across the planting area. Improve drainage if water routinely pools; do not try to solve waterlogged soil by putting a moisture-sensitive grass into a deeper hole. Most ornamental grasses need no heavy fertilizer, and excess nitrogen can cause floppy growth. Follow soil-test advice rather than adding amendments by guesswork.
- Plant at the right time and depth. Spring is a reliable planting season in cold-winter regions, giving roots time to establish before winter. In mild climates, fall can also work if plants have time to root before heat or frost. Dig a hole as deep as the root ball and about twice as wide. Set the crown at the same level it grew in its pot, backfill, firm gently, and water thoroughly. Avoid burying the crown.
- Water while roots establish. Keep the root zone evenly moist—not waterlogged—during the first growing season, adjusting for rainfall, soil, and heat. Water deeply when the surface begins to dry rather than giving frequent shallow sprinkles. Once established, many grasses tolerate some drought, but requirements vary; moisture-loving sedges and wet-site species need more consistent water.
- Maintain according to the plant. Many deciduous grasses are cut back in late winter or early spring before new shoots emerge. Tie large clumps together and cut them to several inches above the ground, taking care not to damage fresh growth. Evergreen grasses generally need only dead-leaf cleanup and occasional combing. Divide crowded clumps in spring or early fall, depending on the plant and local climate, and remove unwanted seedlings before they spread.
Common Mistakes
- Ignoring mature size: A small nursery pot can become a wide, tall clump that crowds paths or hides other plants. Check dimensions before planting.
- Choosing by looks alone: A plant suited to dry sun may decline in shade or wet soil. Match light and drainage first.
- Planting a runner in a small bed: Rhizomatous grasses may spread beyond their place. Choose a clumper or provide a suitable barrier and monitor it.
- Cutting every grass back in fall: Standing foliage can protect crowns and provide winter interest. Leave deciduous types until late winter or early spring unless local conditions require otherwise.
- Overwatering or overfertilizing: Both can weaken growth or cause flopping. Adjust watering to the species and soil, and fertilize only when a soil test or clear deficiency supports it.
- Assuming all ornamental grasses are safe to plant: Some species self-seed or spread aggressively in particular regions. Check local guidance before purchase.
Tips
- Use fall foliage and seed heads as part of the design; many grasses look attractive after their growing season.
- Combine fine-textured grasses with broad-leaved perennials for contrast, while keeping plants with similar water and light needs together.
- For a screen, plant in staggered groups rather than a rigid, tightly packed line, and allow room for mature width.
- Keep labels or a simple planting map. Cultivars can look similar but differ substantially in height, spread, and winter hardiness.
Troubleshooting
- The clump flops open: Check whether it is getting too much shade, fertilizer, or water, or is overcrowded. Move or divide it if needed, and select a more upright cultivar for the site.
- Leaves brown at the tips: Check soil moisture and drainage, especially during heat. Trim damaged foliage if desired, but do not assume browning means the plant needs fertilizer.
- The crown dies after winter: Poor drainage, excessive winter wet, or a plant beyond its hardiness range may be responsible. Confirm the cultivar’s zone rating and improve drainage or replace it with a locally hardy option.
- New shoots appear beyond the planting: Identify whether they are rhizome shoots or seedlings, then remove them promptly. If spread continues, dig out the plant and roots or replace it with a clumping, noninvasive choice.
- No new growth appears in spring: Some grasses break dormancy late. Wait until the usual growth period for your region, then inspect the crown for firm, living tissue. If it is soft, dead, or rotted, remove the plant and review drainage and winter suitability.
Frequently Asked Questions
Which ornamental grasses are best for beginners?
Start with a locally hardy, clumping species matched to your site. Switchgrass is often a dependable choice for sunny conditions, while suitable sedges can work in shade or moist areas. Confirm cultivar size and local recommendations.
What ornamental grasses grow well in shade?
Many true grasses prefer sun, but some sedges (Carex) and Japanese forest grass (Hakonechloa macra) tolerate shade. Choose based on your soil moisture and the amount of light, and verify hardiness locally.
Which grasses tolerate dry conditions?
Established blue fescue, little bluestem (Schizachyrium scoparium), and some switchgrass cultivars can handle dry sites when planted in suitable, well-drained soil. New plantings still need regular watering while they establish.
When should ornamental grasses be cut back?
Cut most deciduous varieties in late winter or early spring before new shoots grow. Tidy evergreen types by removing dead leaves instead of cutting the whole plant to the ground.
Can ornamental grasses grow in containers?
Yes. Choose a compact variety, a pot with drainage holes, and a potting mix suited to its moisture needs. Containers dry and freeze faster than garden soil, so check watering and winter protection requirements.
How many grasses should I plant together?
Use the mature width on the plant label to calculate spacing. Small varieties can work in groups or repeated drifts; larger clumps may need several feet between centers. Avoid crowding plants to create an instant screen.