How to Fix a Leaky Outside Faucet

Replace the worn washer or faucet parts

Shut off the water, identify where the outdoor faucet leaks, and replace the worn washer, packing, or cartridge that is causing it. If the faucet body or pipe is cracked, it may need replacement or a plumber.

• First step Shut off and drain the supply
• Common cause Worn washer or packing
• Watch out Cracked pipes need prompt repair

A dripping outside faucet can waste water and may signal a worn seal or a damaged pipe. This guide covers common compression-style hose bibs, which have a handle that turns several times, and explains when the repair differs for a frost-free faucet. Before taking anything apart, find the indoor shutoff valve that controls the faucet and confirm it actually stops the water.

What You’ll Need

• Adjustable wrench and screwdriver
• Replacement faucet washer or other matching repair part
• Penetrating oil for a stuck nut, if needed
• Rag, small container, and flashlight
• Plumber’s grease labeled safe for potable-water plumbing, if the faucet instructions call for it
• Work gloves and eye protection

Take the old washer or faucet information to a hardware store to match the size and type. Faucet designs vary, so do not assume parts are interchangeable. Avoid using thread-seal tape or pipe compound on a stem nut unless the manufacturer specifies it; those products do not repair a worn washer.

Step-by-Step

1. Pinpoint the leak. Dry the faucet with a rag, turn the water on briefly, and watch where moisture forms. A leak from the spout when the handle is fully closed often points to a worn washer or seat. Water around the handle usually indicates worn packing or a packing nut that needs adjustment. A leak at a hose connection may be only a damaged hose washer. Water coming from behind the faucet, through a crack, or from the wall needs a different repair.
2. Shut off the supply. Turn off the dedicated indoor shutoff valve, if present. If you cannot find one, use the home’s main water shutoff. Open the outdoor faucet to release pressure and drain remaining water; leave it open while working. If the shutoff does not stop the flow, do not remove faucet parts—close the main valve or call a plumber.
3. Protect the faucet and loosen the handle. Close the faucet only enough to make it stable, then use a screwdriver to remove the handle screw and pull the handle straight off. Keep small pieces together. If the handle is stuck, apply penetrating oil sparingly around its hub and allow it to work; do not pry hard against the pipe or twist the faucet body.
4. Remove the stem assembly. Use an adjustable wrench to turn the packing nut or bonnet nut counterclockwise. Hold the faucet body steady with a second wrench where practical so force does not twist the pipe in the wall. If the nut will not move, stop rather than forcing it; a corroded connection can break. Once loose, turn the stem out and note the order and orientation of its parts.
5. Inspect the washer and seat. At the end of a compression-faucet stem, look for a small rubber washer held by a screw. Replace a flattened, split, hardened, or missing washer with the same shape and size. Check the screw and the metal seat inside the faucet for damage or heavy pitting. A damaged seat may need a faucet-seat tool or professional repair; a new washer alone may not stop the drip.
6. Check packing if the handle leaked. Look for a packing washer or packing string around the stem beneath the packing nut. Replace it with the correct part if it is deteriorated. If the packing appears sound, reassemble and tighten the packing nut slightly—about one-eighth turn at a time. Too much tightening makes the handle difficult to turn and can damage parts.
7. Reassemble carefully. Refit the stem in its original orientation and tighten the bonnet or packing nut snugly, not excessively. Reinstall the handle and screw. If the manufacturer recommends it, apply a thin coat of potable-water-safe plumber’s grease to moving parts; do not grease the rubber washer’s sealing face.
8. Restore water and test. Close the outdoor faucet, then slowly open the indoor shutoff. Check the handle, faucet body, and wall for leaks. Turn the faucet on and off several times, then watch the spout for a few minutes. A brief residual drop can drain from the spout, but a continuing drip means the seal, seat, or assembly still needs attention.
9. Drain and protect the faucet. If the faucet has a shutoff inside the house, close it after testing and open the outdoor faucet to drain trapped water, especially before freezing weather. Disconnect garden hoses before winter; a hose can trap water and contribute to freeze damage. Follow the faucet maker’s instructions for frost-free models.

Common Mistakes

• Working with the water on: Even a small stream can flood the work area when the stem comes out. Verify the shutoff first.
• Using the wrong replacement part: Washers differ in size and style. Match the old part and faucet model rather than forcing a near match.
• Overtightening: Excess force can strip threads, crack a fitting, or make the handle bind. Tighten only enough to stop the leak.
• Turning the faucet body: Twisting the body can loosen a hidden connection in the wall. Counterhold it and stop if the pipe moves.
• Assuming every leak is a washer: Handle leaks, hose-connection drips, damaged seats, and cracked pipes have different causes.
• Ignoring freeze damage: A frost-free faucet can split inside the wall if a hose is left attached or the unit is installed incorrectly. A leak that appears indoors when the faucet runs needs prompt investigation.

Tips

• Photograph each layer as you remove it. The image can help restore the stem, washers, and handle in the right order.
• Keep the faucet model or old parts handy when buying replacements. If there is no model label, take the washer and stem assembly for comparison.
• Open and close shutoff valves slowly. A valve that is stiff, leaking, or fails to stop water should not be forced.
• Check the hose washer before disassembling the faucet. If water leaks only where the hose connects, replace the flat washer inside the hose coupling first.
• Use a faucet cover only as added protection, not as a substitute for draining a hose or following freeze-preparation instructions.

Troubleshooting

The spout still drips after replacing the washer: The replacement may be the wrong size, may not sit flat, or the faucet seat may be pitted. Recheck the washer and screw, then inspect the seat. If the seat is damaged or cannot be removed safely, replace the faucet or call a plumber.

Water leaks around the handle: Tighten the packing nut in small increments. If the handle becomes hard to turn or the leak continues, replace the packing or the faucet’s designated seal. Do not keep tightening a nut that is already snug.

The nut is stuck or the pipe moves: Stop. Corrosion can make a nut seize, and turning the pipe can break a concealed joint. A plumber can remove or replace the faucet without damaging the plumbing behind the wall.

Water appears inside the wall or basement: Shut off the faucet’s supply immediately, or the home’s main valve if necessary. Do not use the faucet until the damaged pipe or faucet is repaired. Hidden leaks can cause substantial water damage.

A frost-free faucet leaks only when running: The faucet may have a cracked tube or a problem with its installation. Shut off the supply and arrange repair; replacing an ordinary washer may not address this failure.

Frequently Asked Questions

Why does an outside faucet drip after I turn it off?

A worn washer, damaged valve seat, or debris can prevent the valve from sealing. If water continues dripping after the faucet has drained, inspect and replace the appropriate seal.

Can I fix a leaky outside faucet without shutting off the water?

No. Removing the stem while the supply is pressurized can release uncontrolled water. Shut off the dedicated valve or main supply and verify that the faucet stops flowing first.

How do I know whether my faucet is frost-free?

A frost-free faucet usually has a longer body that places its shutoff valve inside the heated part of the house. The faucet often slopes slightly downward toward the outlet so it can drain, but check the model or instructions to confirm.

Should I replace the whole faucet or just the washer?

A matching washer is often enough when the body and seat are in good condition. Replace the faucet or get professional help if it is cracked, badly corroded, has a damaged seat, or leaks from inside the wall.

Do I need to remove the garden hose in winter?

Yes. Disconnect the hose so water can drain from the faucet, particularly with a frost-free model. Follow the faucet maker’s winterizing instructions and close and drain any indoor shutoff arrangement where applicable.

Further reading: U.S. Department of Energy