Ground covering perennial flowers are low-growing plants that spread to form a dense, living mat over the soil. They suppress weeds, reduce erosion, retain moisture, and add color and texture to areas where grass struggles, such as shady spots, slopes, or between stepping stones. This guide walks you through choosing, planting, and caring for these versatile plants so they thrive for years.
What You’ll Need
- Perennial ground cover plants (choose species suited to your climate and light)
- Garden trowel or small spade
- Compost or organic matter
- Mulch (shredded bark, leaf mold, or straw)
- Watering can or hose with a gentle spray nozzle
- Garden gloves
- Optional: slow-release fertilizer labeled for perennials
Step-by-Step
- Choose the right plant for the site. Assess the amount of sunlight the area receives (full sun, partial shade, or deep shade) and check your soil drainage. Select ground cover perennials that match those conditions. For example, creeping thyme tolerates dry, sunny spots, while foamflower prefers moist shade. Consult a local nursery for proven performers in your region.
- Prepare the soil. Remove existing weeds, grass, and debris from the planting area. Loosen the top several inches of soil with a trowel or spade. Mix in a few inches of compost to improve drainage and fertility. Rake the surface smooth.
- Plan the spacing. Read the plant tag for recommended spacing—typically between six inches and two feet apart, depending on how quickly the plant spreads. Closer spacing fills in faster but requires more plants; wider spacing is cheaper but takes longer to cover the ground.
- Dig planting holes. For each plant, dig a hole slightly wider and the same depth as the nursery pot. Space holes according to your plan.
- Plant the perennials. Gently remove each plant from its pot, loosen any circling roots, and place it in the hole. Backfill with soil, firming gently. The crown (where stems meet roots) should sit at the same level as the surrounding soil—not buried deeper.
- Water thoroughly. After planting, water each plant deeply to settle the soil and eliminate air pockets. Keep the soil consistently moist for the first few weeks until roots establish.
- Apply mulch. Spread a two- to three-inch layer of mulch around the plants, keeping it a few inches away from stems to prevent rot. Mulch retains moisture, suppresses weeds, and moderates soil temperature.
- Water regularly during the first season. Newly planted ground covers need regular watering—about one inch per week, more in hot, dry weather. Once established (usually after one growing season), most are drought-tolerant, but they still benefit from occasional deep watering during prolonged dry spells.
- Fertilize lightly in spring. If your soil is poor, apply a slow-release fertilizer formulated for perennials in early spring, following label rates. Avoid over-fertilizing, which can cause leggy growth and fewer flowers.
- Maintain and divide as needed. In subsequent years, trim back any dead foliage in late winter or early spring. Every few years, divide overcrowded clumps to rejuvenate them and fill new areas.
Common Mistakes
- Planting in the wrong light. Sun-loving plants in shade become leggy and bloom poorly; shade-lovers in sun may scorch.
- Overwatering or poor drainage. Many ground covers, especially those native to rocky or dry habitats, rot in soggy soil.
- Planting too deep. Burying the crown invites stem rot and can kill the plant.
- Skipping weed control. Weeds compete for water and nutrients and can outcompete young plants.
- Choosing an aggressive spreader for a small area. Some ground covers, like certain mints, can become invasive and smother neighboring plants.
Tips
- For quick coverage, plant in staggered rows rather than straight lines—this fills gaps faster.
- Mix several complementary species to extend bloom time and create a more resilient mat.
- On slopes, plant across the slope (contour) to slow water runoff and reduce erosion.
- Use a garden fork to loosen compacted soil before planting—roots need oxygen.
- Water new plants in the morning to reduce evaporation and disease risk.
- Keep mulch away from plant crowns to prevent moisture buildup.
Troubleshooting
- Plants are dying or turning yellow. Check drainage—if water pools after rain, improve drainage by amending soil with compost or moving plants to a raised bed. Also check for overwatering; let the top inch of soil dry between waterings.
- Bare patches where plants didn’t spread. This often indicates poor soil, too much shade, or competition from tree roots. Amend soil, thin nearby tree branches to let in more light, or replace with a more shade-tolerant species.
- Weeds keep coming back. Pull weeds when soil is moist to get roots out. Reapply mulch as it breaks down, and consider a pre-emergent herbicide labeled for use around perennials (follow label instructions carefully).
- Leaves have holes or are chewed. Inspect for slugs, snails, or insects. Handpick at dusk, set out traps, or use an organic pesticide labeled for the specific pest.
- Plants are leggy with few flowers. This usually means insufficient sunlight. Move them to a sunnier spot or prune surrounding vegetation to increase light.
Frequently Asked Questions
How long does it take for ground cover perennials to fill in? It depends on the species and spacing. Fast growers like creeping Jenny can cover an area in one season; slower ones like pachysandra may take two or three years. Closer spacing speeds coverage.
Can I plant ground covers under trees? Yes, but choose shade-tolerant species and water them well, as tree roots compete for moisture. Avoid planting directly against the trunk, and add a layer of compost to help retain moisture.
Do ground covers need to be cut back in winter? Most benefit from leaving foliage in place to protect roots and provide winter interest. In late winter or early spring, cut back dead growth to make way for new shoots.
Will ground covers choke out weeds completely? Once established, a dense mat suppresses most weeds by blocking light. However, persistent weeds may still poke through, especially in gaps. Regular weeding during establishment is key.
Can I walk on ground cover perennials? Some, like creeping thyme and sedum, tolerate light foot traffic. Others are fragile. Check plant tags for foot-traffic tolerance before using them as a lawn substitute.
How do I divide ground cover perennials? In early spring or fall, dig up the plant clump, separate it into smaller sections with roots attached, and replant them immediately. Water well after planting.